An Interview with a lone traveller: Iceland
Adventure tourism is on the rise with more people becoming thrill-seekers abroad than ever before. However, according to Skift*, Iceland – one of the major European adventure tourism destinations – has faced a recent decline in tourism numbers. But why? Iceland has plenty of jaw-dropping views, astounding natural beauty and a focus on eco-tourism throughout the country. In May 2017, Dominik Lennard flew to Reykjavík. Here is an interview that will hopefully inspire any aspiring lone travellers to take the plunge and to experience the Icelandic adventure tourism excursion that will change their life.
Why Iceland?
“I have always been a fan of camping and hiking and my following on social media reflects that. I’d see photos and videos of places all across the world of adventures in locations by themselves. But doing any sort of research you’ll come across the same photo swarmed with tourists and other hikers. One place that stuck out to me was Iceland. Seas of black sand, mountains that reached the skies and valleys that make your stomach turn looking down into them. This followed by wild campers sharing their experiences online really made the place seem magical.”
What aspects of adventure tourism were present in your excursion?
“Despite being in the wilderness of Thórsmörk for the vast majority of my time in Iceland, there were some aspects of adventure tourism present in my excursion. I took a specially adapted bus from Reykjavik to Thórsmörk which was amphibious and had wheels taller than me. We had to go through some of the rivers to arrive at our destination which in itself seemed like an adventure. For this bus my drop off point was “Volcano Huts Þórsmörk”. Here there were rooms, specific camping sites, a canteen and many tour guides who’d do tours of the very local area. Closer to the rivers there were also some canoe boats if I remember correctly at “Thorsmork Skagfjörðsskáli”.
I also remember going on top of a mountain near the Volcano Huts and seeing what looked like some tourists who rented what looked to be a monster truck like vehicle. However, as I spend the vast majority of my time walking on a path based on the Laugavegur trekking route during off season, there was little to be disturbed by, other than a few fellow hikers which was nice to see after days of being alone.”
What inspired you to hike through Thórsmörk and gosh?
“I went to Iceland in May of 2017 during the off season period. Travel during this time from region to others was limited. Thankfully Reykjavik Excursions had one bus which travelled to and from Thórsmörk during this ime. After a bit of research I found the Laugavegur trekking route and started looking at maps to plan my own route around it.”
Did you meet any other lone travellers on the excursion?
“While there were quite a few people around the “Volcano Huts Þórsmörk”, the further I trekked North, the less people I saw. During a few days I don’t believe I saw any people. There was one pair of hikers during the early stages of the hike I kept passing. I’d take a break, they passed me. They’d set up camp, I passed them. In the morning they’d pass me. It was a running joke between us and it was nice having some contact with people over this time.
There was evidence of people though. Over the path there are groups of shelters for those who wanted a bed for the night. I believe I only passed two of such groups of shelters. Within one of these shelters I found a guest book full of entries of other hikers dating back to 2012. Not only were there diary entries but also beautifully detailed drawings of the Icelandic scenery.”
Did you feel well prepared? What items did you take with you?
“I felt well prepared. I had brand new kit that I adapted to and knew how to use. I had a map with a planned route, posted it online and told people the day I’d be back.
In terms of items I brought, I had an extra two days’ worth of food if something went wrong, loads of layers, new tent, shoes, hiking poles, sleeping bag and loads of miscellaneous items. I even bought thick waterproof socks for crossing rivers. Of course, you never know if you were well prepared until you come back.
Iceland’s water is very clear and clean, however, I’d always recommend a water filter now that I’ve carried out further hikes. Not every hike will have water you can see the source for. That being said I had a fairly bad stomach on one of the mornings and I didn’t know if this was down to not using a filter on one of the rivers.
I also used a hexi-block cooker to heat my meals and water, however, battling the constant wind sometimes it took me nearly an hour to get the block burning, and even then I never had anything other than a lukewarm meal. After this I got myself a gas cooker and never looked back.
You will learn from every hike you do. Start small and grow your kit along with your skill. If you’re looking to go yourself always take a look at lists online, I believe I used this list* to influence me. JUST DON’T FORGET THE WATER FILTER.”
What was the best part of the excursion?
“I had many highlights; from defending myself from a native bird, hiding from a sandstorm, standing on the edge of a fjord, feeding an artic fox and hiking the deserts of Iceland. I’d personally say that going off track and having the hiking towards Rjúpnafell was by far my best decision.
Day 4 of my excursion. I had to turn back due to the vaste amounts of snow covering the Northern parts of the Laugavegur path. My muscles have ached from days of non-stop hiking carrying a 20kg pack, I’m cold, it’s windy, and I have only bathed the essentials due to the only water being recently melted ice.
However, while I am hiking back I come to a fork in the road. One path leads to the Volcano Huts, the other unknown. I could easily walk to base camp and take my first shower in days and relax… or take this unknown path and see where it takes me. I have a whole day left tomorrow after all. I remember thinking to myself the only person who could stop me right now is me. How with anyone else they’d most likely just want to go back and wind down before the bus comes for Reykjavik.
While becoming lost by accident can be a scary experience, getting yourself purposely lost is an adventure (within reason).
Little did I know that this path led to what I now know to be Rjúpnafell, a mountain I spotted and was impressed with from day one. It was also down this route that I came across the most perfect hidden valley with flat ground and a stream where I spent the night.”
Did you do any leisure activities to relax from the hiking?
“On the trek itself, only read my book. I used my phone for taking photos and kept it on airplane mode for the rest of the time. The only times I had to read were when I was waiting for my boil bags to heat up or just before bed, but then I’d mostly fall asleep fairly quick anyway. Unfortunately I did not find any hot springs on my travel which made bringing my swimming trunks pretty pointless.”
If you were to go again, would you do anything differently?
“I would definitely spend less time trying to get the “best shot” on my go pro. I got some amazing clips and I’m so grateful for the footage turning out the way it did, however, I spent so much time changing the batteries, getting a good angle and cleaning the lenses that I feel like I spent a lot of time focusing on this rather than the walk itself.”
Did Iceland surprise you in anyway?
“Yes. I had a few people downplay it, going round the tourist traps and the tourist locations, however, there is something super peaceful and adventurous knowing that no one is around you for miles around. Iceland has mountains, green fields and beaches of black sand”
What is your advice to anyone planning to take their first adventure tourism excursion alone?
“Learn what kit you need in an environment that is safe and close to home. This is because if you run low on supplies or realise you need something, you can get it no issue. Different environments need different kit too. In Iceland you’ll be crossing loads of rivers so bring alternative waterproofs for specifically this. Make sure you do your research so you know what to bring.
Let friends and family know where you are going so if you do get lost and you can’t get help, you know help will come.
Get good walking boots. I cannot understate how important this is. Brashers got me through Iceland, no blisters and without wet socks.
Don’t underestimate dehydration. Iceland is known for its abundance of water but other countries are not so lucky. Some sources of water are also less sanitary than others. Get a water filter and look after it for that care free drinking.”
*Skift article: https://skift.com/2019/09/11/the-rise-and-fall-of-icelands-tourism-miracle/
The Lone Traveller 
Great post 😁
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